Title: Tutorial: painting pre-Heresy Thousand Sons
Magos Explorator - June 20, 2009 05:10 PM (GMT)
This is my method for painting pre-Heresy Thousand Sons, in seven easy steps.
It is fairly simple, although I will say now it is very important that you let each layer dry fully before painting the next. This can take a few hours but if you don't wait for them to dry then the paint can pool and mix in funny ways you don't want.
That said, here we go! This is a model I built from regular Marine parts together with an Assault Marine Torso, de-horned Chaos Warrior helmet and High Elf archer crest. I also upturned the vents on the backpack.
1. Prime your model Chaos Black, and then paint the metal in Mithril Silver. I'd advise against drybrushing here as you want a good coverage. I have dabbed it on a bit; the very slightly uneven coating gives the finished model gives a bit of a weathered effect for not much effort.
2. Wash once with Badab Black and once with Baal Red, making sure each layer has dried fully. This gives a bit of shading and starts to lay down the red. Don't worry that it looks pink at this point.
3. Lightly drybrush with Mithril Silver; not too much, just to bring out the edges of the armour.
4. Wash once with Baal Red and once with Gryphonne Sepia, again with plenty of drying time between the two layers. The model should be a nice ruddy tone by now. The red's mostly done!
5. Now we paint some details. The remaining silvered metal is painted Boltgun Metal and highlighted Mithril Silver. The gold is Shining Gold highlighted with Mitrhil Silver. The off-white is Dheneb Stone highlighted with Skull White; I also did the Tactical and Legion symbols in these colours. The black is Chaos Black highlighted with Adeptus Battlegrey.
6. When dry, was the model in thinned Devlan Mud. When dry, the purity seal/oath of moment/hexagrammic ward and gem were painted in blues (although greens, black, yellow or purple would probably also look good). I also added a little battle damage using Chaos Black, Scorched Brown and Boltgun Metal.
Base and you're done! I've also added shows from all sides to show the symbols more clearly.
It is fairly simple, although I will say now it is very important that you let each layer dry fully before painting the next. This can take a few hours but if you don't wait for them to dry then the paint can pool and mix in funny ways you don't want.
That said, here we go! This is a model I built from regular Marine parts together with an Assault Marine Torso, de-horned Chaos Warrior helmet and High Elf archer crest. I also upturned the vents on the backpack.
1. Prime your model Chaos Black, and then paint the metal in Mithril Silver. I'd advise against drybrushing here as you want a good coverage. I have dabbed it on a bit; the very slightly uneven coating gives the finished model gives a bit of a weathered effect for not much effort.
2. Wash once with Badab Black and once with Baal Red, making sure each layer has dried fully. This gives a bit of shading and starts to lay down the red. Don't worry that it looks pink at this point.
3. Lightly drybrush with Mithril Silver; not too much, just to bring out the edges of the armour.
4. Wash once with Baal Red and once with Gryphonne Sepia, again with plenty of drying time between the two layers. The model should be a nice ruddy tone by now. The red's mostly done!
5. Now we paint some details. The remaining silvered metal is painted Boltgun Metal and highlighted Mithril Silver. The gold is Shining Gold highlighted with Mitrhil Silver. The off-white is Dheneb Stone highlighted with Skull White; I also did the Tactical and Legion symbols in these colours. The black is Chaos Black highlighted with Adeptus Battlegrey.
6. When dry, was the model in thinned Devlan Mud. When dry, the purity seal/oath of moment/hexagrammic ward and gem were painted in blues (although greens, black, yellow or purple would probably also look good). I also added a little battle damage using Chaos Black, Scorched Brown and Boltgun Metal.
Base and you're done! I've also added shows from all sides to show the symbols more clearly.