Title: Obligatory true-scale attempt
Magos Explorator - September 5, 2009 07:04 AM (GMT)
Last night I had a go at Apologist-pattern True-scaling and built one Tactical and one Assault marines.
Considering I don't have much experience sculpting I think it came out alright, although I definitely lack the skill and patience to build a whole army of these guys! So I now have even more respect for those few who have!
Any pointers would be helpful. I used Pro-Create and Doghouse's trick of vaseline on the round end of the sculpting tool to smooth everything out and not leave fingerprints. What I found hard was creating any sort of detail--the sculpting tool would not cut cleanly, and I have some clay shapers but couldn't do much with those (perhaps I am using them wrong?). So the models are pretty rough around the edges.
I'd originally planned to use plasticard for the shoulder pad rims, but had difficulty getting it to stay down, so didn't.
This guy is a Tactical marine. I tried to add a raised round plate on his chest piece.
Here's an assault marine, using a MaxMini jump pack (which I think look a little large for regular-scale marines). The light doesn't let you make it out so well, but he's got an oval chest-plate, with a rectangular piece of armour coming down over the belt.
Like I said, any tips on how to improve sculpting very much appreciated! :)
Considering I don't have much experience sculpting I think it came out alright, although I definitely lack the skill and patience to build a whole army of these guys! So I now have even more respect for those few who have!
Any pointers would be helpful. I used Pro-Create and Doghouse's trick of vaseline on the round end of the sculpting tool to smooth everything out and not leave fingerprints. What I found hard was creating any sort of detail--the sculpting tool would not cut cleanly, and I have some clay shapers but couldn't do much with those (perhaps I am using them wrong?). So the models are pretty rough around the edges.
I'd originally planned to use plasticard for the shoulder pad rims, but had difficulty getting it to stay down, so didn't.
This guy is a Tactical marine. I tried to add a raised round plate on his chest piece.
Here's an assault marine, using a MaxMini jump pack (which I think look a little large for regular-scale marines). The light doesn't let you make it out so well, but he's got an oval chest-plate, with a rectangular piece of armour coming down over the belt.
Like I said, any tips on how to improve sculpting very much appreciated! :)
ShroudFilm - September 5, 2009 10:09 AM (GMT)
Not bad at all! What putty are you using?
Those packs seem perfectly sized for TS marines... :D
Those packs seem perfectly sized for TS marines... :D
Magos Explorator - September 5, 2009 11:19 AM (GMT)
It's Pro-Create, as I heard it was easier to work with than Green Stuff. I don't have much experience with Green Stuff to compare, but the Pro-Create seemed to mix ok and was malleable for an hour or so!
ShroudFilm - September 5, 2009 04:24 PM (GMT)
I still swear by Milliput - it's rubbish for sculpting, but MUCH better if you want to file it flat afterwards! I had my first stab at green-stuffing the other day, under the tutelage of Titus Pullo... we discussed the merits of each medium in some depth! :D
Gagoc TheAncient - September 5, 2009 06:46 PM (GMT)
Have heard of mixing Greenstuff with Milliput Shroud?
You mix a batch of each seperately and then work them together.
You get a putty that sculpts better than Milliput, but is harder than Greenstuff. It's really useful for sculptural bits with hard edges.
I used to use the Terracota Milliput, it gave a smooth finish but was still as hard as the rest. Now I can only get the Grey or White Milliput.
You mix a batch of each seperately and then work them together.
You get a putty that sculpts better than Milliput, but is harder than Greenstuff. It's really useful for sculptural bits with hard edges.
I used to use the Terracota Milliput, it gave a smooth finish but was still as hard as the rest. Now I can only get the Grey or White Milliput.