I'm trying to print b/w transparencies on my Epson R2400, but they always end up inconsistent, often with lines or bands in them. I print the same images on paper and don't have this problem.

I'm guessing it may be how the printer "grabs" the sheets, and maybe with the transparency film there is some wiggle, so printing is inconsistent.

I've seen some transparency films that come with a white paper strip down the side. I wonder if this is to help the printer grab onto the film?

Any suggestions for how to deal with this? And how do people make digital transparencies with this problem?

(I'm printing using Quadtone RIP at 720 DPI (to get aquatint-like random dot pattern), uni-directional , with matte black ink only; but I have some of the same banding issues when I print in Advanced B/W mode on this printer.)

Best, David.

I use the Epson 3000. I always set the media to gloss photo paper and not transparency. Sometimes I have banding in large black areas. Most printers have feeder wheels that can leave lines but these are vertical not horizontal. You may need to clean the nozzles, this helps me when I get too much banding. Is that printer a 4 color or does it have more than that? I have no experience with printers that have more than 4.

The bad thing about going digital is all the variables in printers and software. It seems to have even more variables and problems than the old halftone screen on kodalith film darkroom method.

I hope you can get this resolved.

Thanks.

After many trials, last night I used some transparency film give to me by a friend which has a paper strip at the leading edge (its from 3M or Highland I think). This solved the problem, which leads me to believe that the problem was how my printer handles tranparency film. I think the paper edge allows the printer to get a better hold on the sheet. (I had already cleaned the nozzles, aligned the head, etc.)

The Epson R2400 is an eight color printer, but I'm controling it with the Quadtone RIP and I've created a profile that uses only the matte black ink. (As another variable, I tried the Photo Black ink, but I find I get better coverage/opacity with the matte black ink.) Besides using only one black ink, I print at 720 DPI ouput with uni-directional printing. The Quadtone RIP has selections for paper type but I believe that they make no difference--unlike the Epson--so I just select "matte paper."

I'm trying to use the "halftone" exposure method onto ImagOn film I learned from Keith Howard this summer. This is the method where you add the "grain/dots" into the image, instead of using a second exposure with an aquatint screen.

It seemed so straightforward in the workshop (I think we were using an older Epson 3000 with fewer cartridges), but of course when I came home to a different printer and exposure unit, I couldn't get it to work.

You are right about the variables: besides the fussiness of ImagOn (correct exposure, developer strength, development time, temperature, etc), and the etching process (ink, paper, press), I now get to add the digital variables!

But after months of floundering, I think I'm pretty close to start making the images I want instead of the test image of my friend's face.

Best, David.

Here's how I do that for Puretch.

http://www.capefearpress.com/greyscale.html

Glad it's working now.
Jennifer

Thanks Jennifer. At first glance, this looks a lot like the method I use now, but I'm printing at 720 dpi output. I'll take a closer look and give it a try.

Best, David.

PS - do you use soda ash as developer for Puretch? And is the process shown on the web site? I like trying new methods.

D.

The developer is the same, 1% sodium carbonate. The instructions link is on the bottom of the home page and the Puretch page but I don't have very many photos. I need to add more.

I also have a banding problem on my transparencies. I'm printing them with an Epson 3000. The marks align with the little metal guide rollers that are just before to the print area on the 3000. Haven't solved the problem yet. It might be that the rollers scuff the emulsion on the transparency material. I am using Posjet film for the transparency and it has a thicker emulsion than most ink jet films. I've been planning on sending Posjet a scan of the banding and see if they have a fix. I will post anything I find out.

Dan, Look through the posjet site and I believe there is a way to remove the inner roller wheels leaving the ones intact on the edges to pull the film through. Proceed at your own risk though.
Jennifer

Jennifer,

I checked the Posjet site. He has instruction for removing the pie wheels, which is post-print area. The rollers I refer to are pre-print area. Not sure why those rollers would leave marks, unless they are compressing the emulsion enough tho affect how the ink lays on the film.

danl

I ran a cleaning sheet through my Epson 3000 and it came out filthy. The the filth alligned with the banding on my transparencies. Yes it was associated with the guide rollers. I ran the cleaning sheet every which way through the machine and cleaned the platen as best I could. Lots-o-dirt.

Cleanish now and the banding has gone away!!!!!
Go figure.

Interesting. Is the 'cleaning sheet' a special cleaning material or just plain paper?

The Cleaning sheets are sticky on one side and one comes with a 100 pack of Epson Photo Inkjet paper. (Or used to, as they are a few years old. Very useful.

I was able to fix the banding and inconsistency in my images by using the Quadton RIP's "1440x1440 super" resolution setting. See my new post for the challenge I'm having with inks.